Agathonisi
Ferry morning in, walk the three villages, swim at Spilia, dinner at Atsidas.
Agathonisi is the northernmost of the Dodecanese, closer to Samos than to any other inhabited Greek island. 13.5 km² of thorny limestone with about 185 year-round residents — locals call the island Gaidaro ('donkey') because of the shape. Three settlements: Agios Georgios (the small port at the only sheltered harbour), Megalo Chorio (the old capital, hidden 2km inland from pirate sight-lines), and nearly-empty Mikro Chorio. No cars you'd notice. No ATM. The 11th-century stone-domed buildings called Tholi near the chapel of Agios Nikolaos are the oldest standing structures — probably Byzantine food stores. A day is enough to walk the island; longer means you wanted to slow all the way down.
1-day itinerary for Agathonisi
Day 1: The Three Villages & Spilia Beach
- · Agios Georgios Port
The only harbour — a sheltered south-facing bay with a wide new pier (yachts moor here), colourful fishing boats, a handful of tavernas and rooms-to-let. The town beach is right at the port: sand and fine pebbles, sparklingly clear water, a handful of tamarisks for shade. - · Spilia Beach
900m south of the port along a coastal path. Sand and fine pebble, turquoise water like a natural swimming pool, and a sea cave at the southeastern end that gives the beach its name. Tamarisks bend toward the water. Goats occasionally come down to drink from the sea — their bells breaking the silence. - · Megalo Chorio
The old capital — 2km uphill from the port, deliberately built invisible from the sea as protection from pirate raids. Stone houses with high whitewashed walls, a mosaic-paved central square with a map of the island inlaid in stone, three churches (Zoodochos Pigi, Agios Ioannis Theologos, Agios Rafail). 168 of the island's 185 residents live here. - · Mikro Chorio & Agios Panteleimonas
Opposite Megalo Chorio — the smaller village, only 17 permanent residents. Whitewashed houses around a tiny square. Climb the 100m-high hill above for the Agios Panteleimonas chapel — panoramic view of both villages, the sea, and on clear days Samos to the north and Leros/Kalymnos to the south. - · The Tholi Domes
Eastern side of the island near the chapel of Agios Nikolaos — stone-built domed constructions from the 11th century, likely Byzantine food warehouses (they have airways at the roofs). Protected by barbed wire but you can get close. Combine with a walk down to Vathy Pigadi beach below. - · Dinner — Atsidas Taverna
In Megalo Chorio with panoramic harbour views. Stews, grilled meat cooked to order, catch of the day. Order the myzithra pies (small handmade cheese pies), goat with macaroni, and the homemade local cheese. This is the reason to have stayed overnight rather than day-tripped.
Top beaches of Agathonisi
Spilia Beach
The best beach on Agathonisi — fine sand and pebble, water so clear it looks like a swimming pool, a natural sea cave at one end. Tamarisk trees bend to the water. Wild goats come down to drink from the sea, their bells breaking the stillness. Bring water; there is nothing here.
- Type
- Fine sand and pebble
- Length
- 100 m
- Depth
- Shallow — turquoise pool-like water
- Facing
- South-facing — sheltered
- Facilities
- None. Tamarisk shade. 15-minute walk south from the port along a coastal path.
Gaidouravlako Beach
The island's most emblematic beach — a small pebble cove with colourful stones and calm turquoise water protected from the winds. Surrounding vegetation gives a bit of shade. Almost always empty. The reward for the 35-minute coastal walk from the port.
- Type
- Colourful pebble
- Length
- 80 m
- Depth
- Medium — calm sheltered cove
- Facing
- South-facing — protected from the meltemi
- Facilities
- None. 20 minutes further along the path from Spilia, or reached by boat from Agios Georgios.
Agios Georgios Beach
The port beach — sand and fine pebbles, sparkling water, the easiest swim on the island. Directly in front of the harbour tavernas, so you can drink a frappé between swims. Not spectacular, but on an island this small, convenient is valuable.
- Type
- Sand and fine pebble
- Length
- 150 m
- Depth
- Shallow — gradual
- Facing
- South-facing — fully sheltered harbour
- Facilities
- Organised: tavernas, cafés, rooms-to-let steps away. Right at the port.
Vathy Pigadi Beach
East-coast pebble beach below the 11th-century Byzantine Tholi domes. Layered pebbles, turquoise water, the combination of archaeology and swim is what makes it worth the effort. The chapel of Agios Nikolaos sits on the hill above.
- Type
- Pebble
- Length
- 80 m
- Depth
- Medium — clear
- Facing
- East-facing
- Facilities
- None. Below the Tholi domes on the east coast. Reached by dirt track or on foot.