Kefalonia
From the Venetian capital of Argostoli to the caves of Melissani, the cliffs above Myrtos and the hidden bays of the south.
Kefalonia is the largest and most dramatic of the Ionian islands — a rugged landscape of towering fir forests, deep gulfs, sheer cliffs and some of the most spectacular beaches in Greece. Myrtos beach is one of the most photographed in the world. The island has its own wine (Robola), its own breed of turtle (Caretta caretta nesting at Lourdas), and a slow, unhurried pace despite its popularity.
Getting there
Domestic airport with summer international charters — Olympic, Sky Express. No Piraeus ferry — reach Kefalonia via Kyllini (Peloponnese, ~3h drive from Athens) to Poros, or via Patras to Sami.
Read full route
Tip: Sami connects to Ithaca too — easy to do both islands together.
When to Visit
Kefalonia is the biggest Ionian island and probably the most varied — Myrtos beach, Melissani lake, Assos castle, Robola wine country. Best May-October. June or September; the August crowds aren't terrible by Greek standards because the island is so big. Easter at Markopoulo (Lixouri) is famous for the harmless little snakes that appear at the church.
5-day itinerary for Kefalonia
Day 1: Argostoli & the Peninsula
- 09:00 · Argostoli
Capital of Kefalonia rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake in clean Ionian style. The waterfront is one of the best in the islands — walk the causeway bridge and watch the loggerhead turtles in the harbour. - 10:00 · Koutavos Lagoon
Protected lagoon behind the causeway — a habitat for loggerhead sea turtles and herons. Walk the perimeter path for views of the lagoon and the mountains. - 11:00 · Archaeological Museum Argostoli
Excellent collection of Mycenaean and Classical finds from across the island. The gold Mycenaean jewellery is outstanding. - 13:00 · Lunch — Casa Grec
One of the best restaurants in Argostoli — Corfiot-inspired cooking with local ingredients. Try the lamb with Robola wine sauce. - 15:30 · Lassi Beaches
Series of sandy beaches on the Lassi peninsula near Argostoli. Calm, well organised, good for families. The best are Makris Gialos and Platis Gialos. - 20:30 · Return to Argostoli
Drive back to Argostoli (about 10 minutes from Lassi). Vallianos Square fills up after dark — it's the social heart of the town. Casa Grec is a favourite for dinner if you didn't lunch there.
Day 2: Robola Wine Country & the South
- 10:00 · Robola Wine Cooperative
Taste Kefalonia's famous Robola — a crisp, dry white wine made only on this island. The cooperative in Fragata is the best place to taste and buy. Free tasting. - 11:30 · Mount Ainos National Park
Dense forest of Abies cephalonica — a fir tree found only on this island. Drive through the park for views over the entire island and across to the mainland. - 14:00 · Lourdas Beach
Long, sandy, south-facing beach with Ionian views — one of the best on the island. Loggerhead sea turtles nest here. The tavernas above on the hill have the best view of any restaurant in Kefalonia. - 16:30 · Skala Beach
Sandy south-coast resort beach. Calm, shallow, family-friendly. Roman villa ruins just behind the beach are free to visit. - 21:00 · Return to Argostoli
Long drive back from the southeast to Argostoli (about 1 hour). The road winds through Lourdas and Lakithra villages — late afternoon light makes the Ainos massif glow.
Day 3: Myrtos, Assos & Fiscardo
- 09:30 · Myrtos Beach Viewpoint
Stop at the famous viewpoint above Myrtos before descending — the view of the white beach between sheer grey cliffs is one of the iconic images of Greece. Best light in the morning. - 10:00 · Myrtos Beach
One of the most dramatic beaches in the world — white pebble and azure water between 300m cliffs. The water is cold, clear and deep. Gets busy by midday. The descent road is steep and narrow. - 13:00 · Assos Village
The most beautiful village in Kefalonia — a tiny isthmus village beneath a Venetian castle. Lunch at one of the harbour tavernas. Perfect swimming in the clear bay. - 15:00 · Assos Castle
16th-century Venetian castle on the headland above Assos. Walk up through the pine trees for extraordinary views over the village and the bay. - 17:30 · Fiscardo
The only village in Kefalonia that survived the 1953 earthquake intact — a perfect Venetian harbour with colourful houses and superyachts. Most expensive spot on the island. Coffee or an early dinner before the drive on to Sami. - 21:00 · Return to Sami
Drive back from Fiscardo to Sami (about 45 minutes). The waterfront tavernas in Sami are quieter than Argostoli — perfect after a full day on the road.
Day 4: Melissani Cave & Sami
- 09:30 · Melissani Cave
An underground lake in a partially open cave — when the sun hits the turquoise water through the roof opening at midday, the colour is extraordinary. Boat tour included. Go before 11am for the best light. - 11:00 · Drogarati Cave
Spectacular stalactite cave with a large chamber used as a concert hall. The acoustics are renowned — Yanni and Maria Callas have performed here. - 12:30 · Sami
Main ferry port of Kefalonia, used as a filming location for Captain Corelli's Mandolin. Pleasant waterfront, good lunch options. - 14:30 · Antisamos Beach
Gorgeous pebble beach near Sami, also filmed in Captain Corelli's Mandolin. Exceptionally clear, cold water. Surrounded by dense green hills — one of the most beautiful settings in the Ionian. - 20:00 · Return to Sami
Short drive back to Sami (about 10 minutes from Antisamos). The harbour walk and a sunset dinner at one of the seafront tavernas closes the day well.
Day 5: Poros & the East Coast
- 09:30 · Poros
Small ferry port on the east coast with ferry connections to Kyllini and Zakynthos. Attractive harbour with good tavernas. - 11:00 · Katelios Beach
Quiet sandy beach in a fishing village on the south coast. One of the main turtle nesting beaches on the island — look but don't disturb. - 13:00 · Tzanata
Mycenaean tholos tomb discovered in 1992 — one of the most important Bronze Age finds in the Ionian islands. Some scholars believe this area may be the true location of Odysseus's kingdom. - 15:30 · Argostoli — Departure
Return to Argostoli for ferry or flight departure. Final coffee on the waterfront watching the turtles.
Top beaches of Kefalonia
Myrtos Beach
One of the most dramatic beaches in the world — dazzling white pebble between sheer 300m grey cliffs, with water of an impossible deep blue. The view from the road above is iconic. The water is cold and deep — not for young children. Everything else is perfect.
- Type
- White pebble and coarse sand
- Length
- 800 m
- Depth
- Deep — cold, crystal clear water. No gradual entry.
- Wind protection
- West-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm most summer days, sometimes choppy on rare westerly winds
- Facilities
- Basic: one beach bar, some sunbeds. Steep narrow descent road — arrive early.
Antisamos Beach
A stunning pebble beach near Sami surrounded by dense green hills — the setting feels almost tropical despite the Ionian latitude. The water is exceptionally clear and blue. One of the most beautiful beaches in the Ionian islands.
- Type
- Fine white pebble
- Length
- 600 m
- Depth
- Medium to deep — very clear, cold water
- Wind protection
- East-facing — mostly sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); can be choppy on the strongest NE days
- Facilities
- Good: sunbeds, beach bar, taverna, parking. Filmed in Captain Corelli's Mandolin.
Lourdas Beach
A long sandy south-coast beach with extraordinary views over the Ionian Sea. Loggerhead sea turtles nest here from June onwards — look out for nesting markers. The hillside tavernas above have the best panoramic view of any restaurant on the island.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 2 km
- Depth
- Shallow — excellent for families, turtle nesting beach
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Good: sunbeds, tavernas on the hill above, parking. Loggerhead turtle nesting area.
Petani Beach
A remote west-coast beach with the same dramatic cliff scenery as Myrtos but far fewer visitors. White cliffs, turquoise water and a small taverna at the waterline. One of the best alternatives to Myrtos for those wanting the scenery without the crowds.
- Type
- Pebble and coarse sand
- Length
- 500 m
- Depth
- Medium — clear turquoise water
- Wind protection
- West-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm most summer days, sometimes choppy on rare westerly winds
- Facilities
- Basic: one taverna, limited sunbeds. Reached via narrow road.
Xi Beach
Kefalonia's most unusual beach — the sand is a distinctive dark red colour from the clay cliffs eroding into it. Shallow, warm and calm. The red sand and blue water contrast is striking. One of the best family beaches on the island.
- Type
- Fine red sand
- Length
- 2 km
- Depth
- Shallow — very gradual, safe for children
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Well organised: sunbeds, beach bars, tavernas, parking. Unique red sand from cliff erosion.