Paxos
Emerald olive groves and the Ionian's clearest water
Paxos is a tiny emerald island just south of Corfu — 19 km², 2,300 residents, blanketed in ancient olive groves that produce some of Greece's finest oil. The island has no airport, only ferries from Corfu, and just three tiny harbor villages. This is sailing-and-swimming Greece, with water so clear that boats appear to float on air. Offshore lies Antipaxos, home to the most translucent water in the Ionian.
Good for
- Couples and sailors after clear water, olive-grove walks and slow dinners by tiny harbours
- Anyone who wants the Ionian's most translucent swimming without Corfu's crowds
- Travellers happy with three small villages and no need for a car
Maybe skip if
- If you need an airport or a quick trip — Paxos is reached only by ferry, via Corfu or the mainland
- If you want big resorts, lively nightlife or a wide choice of beaches
Getting there
No airport. Reach Paxos via Corfu (daily summer ferry, ~1h) or from mainland (Igoumenitsa, Patras). The smaller, quieter Ionian sister.
Read full route
Tip: Ferry from Corfu via Antipaxos and Blue Caves — make the journey part of the trip.
When to Visit
Paxos is an Italian-clientele island — small, olive-grove dense, blue caves on the west coast. Open May-October. June and September are sweet spots. The British/Italian sailing crowd dominates July-August and prices reflect it. Antipaxos beach (15 minutes by boat) is essential.
2-day itinerary for Paxos
Day 1: Gaios & the East Coast
- 10:00 · Gaios (port)
Main village on the east coast. Sheltered natural harbor formed by two offshore islets. Pastel Venetian-style buildings ring the quay. - 11:30 · Agios Nikolaos islet
Tiny islet at the mouth of Gaios harbour, crowned by Venetian fort ruins and a small chapel. The 5-minute rowboat crossing from the quay costs almost nothing; the views back at Gaios from the fort walls are the best on the island. - 13:30 · Lunch — Volcano
Seafood taverna on Gaios' main square, with tables that spill onto the cobblestones. Fresh catch of the day on display behind the counter, excellent local Ionian wines, and the kind of unhurried lunch that runs into mid-afternoon. - 16:00 · Mongonissi Beach
Sheltered sandy bay at the southern tip, 4 km from Gaios on a narrow road. The calmest swimming on Paxos — protected from wind on all sides — and a couple of small tavernas at the back of the beach for grilled octopus and a cold beer. - 20:30 · Dinner — Taka Taka Mam
Tiny family-run spot with dining tables tucked into a lemon grove. Grilled meats, garden-fresh vegetables, no menu — they tell you what they cooked that day. Book by phone the morning of; there are only six tables.
Day 2: West Coast Cliffs & Antipaxos
- 10:00 · Lakka
Prettiest village on Paxos — tiny horseshoe harbor at the northern tip. Great for swimming right from the quay. - 11:30 · Erimitis Cliffs
Dramatic white limestone cliffs on the west coast, dropping straight into deep blue water. Walk the well-marked cliff path from Lakka for the best vantages; the late-afternoon light turns the cliffs gold. Bring water and sturdy shoes. - 13:30 · Longos
Tiny fishing village halfway down the east coast — three tavernas, a soap factory turned ruin, a curve of pebble beach. Lunch at O Gios with views over the bay; ask for the fish soup if the boats came in the night before. - 15:30 · Antipaxos boat trip (Voutoumi)
Day boat from Gaios (15 min). Voutoumi and Vrika beaches have water so clear and blue you won't believe the photos.
Top beaches of Paxos
Voutoumi (Antipaxos)
Famous for the clearest water in the Ionian. Reached by boat from Gaios.
- Type
- White pebbles
- Length
- 400 m
- Depth
- Moderate, crystal clear
- Wind protection
- Northeast-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- Two tavernas on cliff above
Vrika (Antipaxos)
Smaller sandy beach on Antipaxos. Gradual entry, family-friendly, stunning color.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 150 m
- Depth
- Shallow
- Wind protection
- North-facing — fully exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often choppy June–September
- Facilities
- One taverna
Mongonissi
Paxos' only true sandy beach on the main island. Very calm, great for young kids.
- Type
- Sand
- Length
- 100 m
- Depth
- Very shallow
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Beach bar, umbrellas