Donousa
The east-coast walking trail to Kedros and Mersini on Day 1, Kalotaritissa and the north on Day 2.
Donousa sits at the far eastern end of the Cyclades, between Naxos and Amorgos, with about 200 year-round residents spread across four villages — Stavros (the port and Chora), Mersini, Mesaria and Kalotaritissa. The headline beach is Kedros, a turquoise lagoon with a German WWII shipwreck visible just offshore. The mountain village of Mersini has the only natural spring on the island and a panoramic clifftop chapel of Agia Sofia. Free camping was banned a few years ago — the island is no longer the budget backpacker rite it once was, but it still asks nothing of you and rewards everything you give it.
2-day itinerary for Donousa
Day 1: Stavros, Kedros & Mersini
- · Stavros (Chora)
The port and main village, with a sandy crescent beach right next to the harbour. Walk the alleys uphill — the tavernas, mini-market and a few small hotels are all here. Most visitors base themselves in Stavros and walk out from there. - · Kedros Beach
20-minute walk east of Stavros along the coastal path. The largest and most beautiful beach on Donousa — fine yellow sand and turquoise water. The wreck of a German WWII ship lies in shallow water just offshore (visible by snorkel). One beach bar that serves genuinely good food. - · Vathy Limenari
Continue 1km east on the path. Deep turquoise bay with white coarse pebbles. Geometric-period ruins on the surrounding hills — once a pirate hideout. Quieter than Kedros. - · Livadi Beach
The most photogenic beach on the island — emerald water and dazzling white sand reached only by the trail from Mersini (or by boat). Nudist-friendly. No facilities. Bring everything. - · Mersini Village & Spring
Steep climb up from Livadi (160m elevation). The only village with a natural spring on Donousa — water from a plane tree, locals fill bottles for the week. The clifftop chapel of Agia Sofia has the best view on the island, looking out to Amorgos in the distance.
Day 2: Kalotaritissa & the North
- · Kalotaritissa Village
The northernmost settlement on Donousa, reached by an asphalt road climbing high above the sea. Three small beaches in a row (Sapounochoma, Mesa Ammos, Tripiti) and the Mitsos taverna — keftedes that justify the trip on their own. - · Tripiti Beach
Short path from the far end of Kalotaritissa beach. Sandy, nudist-friendly, almost always empty. The third and most secluded of the Kalotaritissa beaches. - · Fokospilia Sea Cave
Reachable only by boat. A dramatic sea cave at Cape Moschonas — once a Mediterranean monk seal breeding site (Greek 'fokia' = seal). Local boat excursions from Stavros include it. - · Aspros Kavos Walk
Easy 2km flat coastal path west from Stavros to a wild limestone cape. Almost no elevation, no shade, but constant Aegean views. The best easy walk on the island.
Top beaches of Donousa
Kedros Beach
The largest and best beach on Donousa — turquoise water, fine yellow sand, with a sunken German WWII ship visible just offshore for snorkelers. Reachable on foot from Stavros along the coastal path. The beach bar at the back is the social centre of the island in summer.
- Type
- Fine yellow sand
- Length
- 300 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — clear sandy bottom
- Facing
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi
- Facilities
- One beach bar with surprisingly good food (Kedros Bar). 20-min walk from Stavros.
Livadi Beach
The most photogenic beach on Donousa — emerald water, white sand, completely undeveloped. The walk down from Mersini is steep and shadeless but the beach below earns it. No facilities, no shade — bring water, an umbrella, and food. The kind of beach that justifies the whole trip.
- Type
- Fine white sand
- Length
- 200 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium
- Facing
- South-facing — sheltered
- Facilities
- None at all. Reached by a steep 900m trail from Mersini (160m descent) or by boat. Nudist-friendly.
Kalotaritissa Beach
The main beach of the northernmost village. Less spectacular than Kedros but the easy car access and Mitsos's taverna with its legendary keftedes make it the default day-trip from Stavros.
- Type
- Fine pebble and sand
- Length
- 200 m
- Depth
- Shallow
- Facing
- North-facing — exposed to the meltemi, can be windy
- Facilities
- The Mitsos taverna right behind. Easy car access.
Vathy Limenari Beach
Wild pebble cove with deep turquoise water and the ruins of a Geometric-period settlement on the surrounding hills — once a pirate base. Reached only on foot from Kedros. Quieter than Kedros, deeper water, no shade.
- Type
- White coarse pebble
- Length
- 100 m
- Depth
- Deep — sudden drop-off
- Facing
- South-facing — sheltered
- Facilities
- None. 1km east of Kedros on the coastal path.