Crete (Chania)
From the Venetian harbour of Chania Town to the great gorge of Samaria, the lagoons of Balos and Elafonisi, and the south-coast quiet of Paleochora.
The Chania region is the most dramatic corner of Crete — and arguably the most dramatic in all of Greece. The White Mountains rise to over 2400m behind a coastline that holds two of the world's most famous beaches: the pink-sand lagoon of Elafonisi and the Caribbean-blue Balos. Add a Venetian old town, the deepest gorge in Europe, and some of the best food on the island, and Chania is impossible to do in less than 5 days.
Getting there
International airport with summer charters — Aegean, Sky Express, Ryanair, EasyJet.
Read full route
Ferries from Piraeus dock at Souda (7km east of Chania town, regular bus). Overnight, daily.
Tip: Direct flight to Chania is usually faster than flying to Heraklion and driving 2.5h west.
When to Visit
Western Crete has the longest swim season in the country — May through October easily, sometimes April and November. Old Town tavernas serve all year. Avoid mid-July to mid-August unless you want German tour buses everywhere. May, early June and September are the dream — Samaria gorge open, sea swimmable, prices half.
5-day itinerary for Crete (Chania)
Day 1: Chania Old Town
- 09:00 · Venetian Harbour
The most beautiful harbour in Crete — a sweeping arc of Venetian architecture, the 16th-century lighthouse, and crystal water. Walk the waterfront at your own pace. - 10:00 · Chania Old Town
Labyrinthine lanes of the old Venetian and Ottoman quarter. Browse the leather market on Skridlof Street, the covered market, and the Byzantine museum. - 11:30 · Kastelli Hill
The oldest part of Chania, with Minoan ruins beneath Venetian walls. Superb views over the harbour and the White Mountains. - 13:30 · Lunch — To Maridaki
Best fish taverna in Chania Town, right on the Venetian harbour. Grilled fish, local wine, incredible setting. Book ahead in summer. - 16:30 · Nea Chora Beach
Town beach 15 minutes walk from the old town. Sandy, shallow, family-friendly. Good for an evening swim before dinner. - 20:00 · Dinner — Tamam
Award-winning Cretan-Ottoman fusion restaurant in a converted Turkish bathhouse in the old town. Outstanding mezedes. Book ahead.
Day 2: Balos Lagoon & Gramvousa
- 09:00 · Kissamos Port
Take the morning ferry from Kissamos port to Balos — the easiest way to reach the lagoon without the dirt road. Tickets from the port office. - 10:00 · Gramvousa Island
The ferry stops at Gramvousa first. Climb to the 16th-century Venetian fortress at the summit for panoramic views over the lagoon below. - 12:00 · Balos Lagoon
One of the most beautiful beaches in Europe — white sand, shallow turquoise lagoon, with Gramvousa island and fortress as a backdrop. Swim, snorkel, and explore. Return ferry at 16:30. - 17:30 · Kissamos Town
Stop in Kissamos on the way back — relaxed harbour town with a good Archaeological Museum if you have time. Then drive back to Chania for dinner in the Old Town. - 20:00 · Return to Chania Town
Drive back to Chania Town (about 45 minutes from Kissamos). Dinner along the Venetian harbour. The contrast between the morning quiet of Balos and the evening buzz of Chania is one of the great pleasures of basing yourself in town.
Day 3: Samaria Gorge
- 07:30 · Xyloskalo (Gorge Entry)
Enter the deepest gorge in Europe at dawn to beat the crowds. The descent from 1200m begins steeply. Allow 4-5 hours for the full 16km walk. - 10:30 · Iron Gates
The most dramatic point in the gorge — the walls narrow to just 3.5 metres apart and rise 300 metres overhead. Eerie and spectacular. - 13:00 · Agia Roumeli Beach
The gorge exits at this remote south-coast village with a small beach. Only accessible on foot or by ferry. Swim in the cold clear water — you've earned it. Ferry back to Chora Sfakion (45 min). - 15:30 · Chora Sfakion
Ferry arrival point on the south coast. Catch the bus back to Chania over the mountain road — about 90 minutes, panoramic. Dinner in the Old Town. - 20:30 · Return to Chania Town
Bus from Chora Sfakion over the White Mountains back to Chania Town — about 90 minutes through some of the most spectacular terrain on Crete. Light dinner; you will have walked 16 km in the heat and need an early night.
Day 4: Falasarna, Elafonisi & Paleochora
- 09:00 · Falasarna Beach
Five consecutive beaches of golden sand on the west coast. The main Pachia Ammos beach is 1km long. Warm turquoise water, consistent waves, spectacular west-facing sunsets. Morning is best — fewer people, softer light. - 11:00 · Ancient Falasarna
Ruins of the ancient Minoan and Hellenistic port city. The ancient harbour wall has risen several metres due to tectonic activity — a fascinating geological record. - 12:30 · Topolia Gorge
Drive through the dramatic Topolia Gorge — towering limestone cliffs and a small cave chapel. A spectacular route that most tourists miss. - 13:30 · Elafonisi Beach
Ranked world's best beach by TripAdvisor. Pink-tinged sand from crushed seashells, shallow emerald lagoon, small island accessible on foot at low tide. Arrive before noon for a sunbed. - 15:30 · Kedrodasos Beach
Secluded wild beach 1km east of Elafonisi through a protected juniper forest. Pristine, unorganised, far fewer people. Worth the short walk. - 18:30 · Paleochora
Laid-back south-coast town with beaches on both sides of a headland. Arrive in the late afternoon, settle in, and have dinner at a waterfront taverna — the seafood here is excellent. Stay overnight.
Day 5: Paleochora & Departure
- 09:00 · Pahia Ammos Beach
Paleochora's main sandy beach on the western side of the headland — long, soft golden sand, shallow turquoise water. Morning swim before the day heats up. - 11:00 · Paleochora Old Town
Walk the headland — a small Venetian castle ruin sits at the tip with views in all directions. Coffee at one of the shaded squares, then last lunch. - 15:00 · Chania Airport (departure)
Drive back to Chania for ferry or flight. About 75 km — give yourself 90 minutes for the mountain road. Final coffee at the Venetian harbour if time allows.
Top beaches of Crete (Chania)
Balos Lagoon
Possibly the most photographed beach in Greece — a white sand lagoon between the mainland and Gramvousa island, with a 16th-century Venetian fortress on the peak above. The water colour is an impossible turquoise. Effort required to get here, but nothing in Greece compares to the first view from the hilltop.
- Type
- Fine white sand and shell fragments
- Length
- 1.5 km
- Depth
- Shallow lagoon — wade-depth in most of the lagoon, deeper on the open sea side
- Wind protection
- Northwest-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- Basic: small snack bar, no sunbeds. Accessible by ferry from Kissamos or via dirt road + 20min hike.
Kedrodasos Beach
The secret beach next to Elafonisi — accessible only on foot through a protected juniper forest. Pristine, uncrowded, and completely undeveloped. The contrast with the busy Elafonisi nearby is striking. The juniper trees are endangered — do not touch them.
- Type
- Fine white sand
- Length
- 300 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — clean sandy bottom
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- None — completely unorganised. Access via 1km walk through protected juniper forest from Elafonisi.
Elafonisi Beach
Ranked world's best beach by TripAdvisor. A shallow pink-sand lagoon at the far southwest tip of Crete, with a small island reachable on foot at low tide. The colour of the water — shifting from turquoise to emerald to deep blue — is extraordinary. Arrive before 10am in peak season.
- Type
- Fine sand with pink tint from crushed seashells
- Length
- 2 km
- Depth
- Very shallow lagoon — knee-deep in most areas, gradually deeper on the island side
- Wind protection
- West and south-facing — warm, calm water throughout summer
- Facilities
- Moderate: some sunbeds and umbrellas, snack bars, large car park. Gets very crowded July-August.
Falasarna Beach
Five consecutive golden sand beaches on the wild west coast, repeatedly named best beach in Crete. The wide open bay, warm water and legendary sunsets make it unforgettable. Best in the morning when the wind is calm — afternoons can get breezy, which makes it perfect for water sports.
- Type
- Golden fine sand
- Length
- 1 km (main beach), 5 beaches total
- Depth
- Medium — good for swimming, some wave action on windier days
- Wind protection
- West-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm most summer days, sometimes choppy on rare westerly winds
- Facilities
- Well organised: sunbeds, umbrellas, beach bars, water sports, several tavernas. Good parking.
Stavros Beach
A perfectly circular enclosed bay near Akrotiri peninsula, filmed in the famous dance scene of Zorba the Greek. Remarkably calm water at all times — wind from any direction has no effect here. One of the best family beaches in the Chania region and far less crowded than Elafonisi.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 400 m
- Depth
- Very shallow — perfectly calm, enclosed bay
- Wind protection
- Northeast-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- Good: sunbeds, tavernas, beach bars. Famous as the filming location for Zorba the Greek.