Crete (Lasithi)
From the cosmopolitan gulf of Agios Nikolaos to the wild east — Spinalonga, Vai, the Minoan palace of Zakros and the gorge of the dead.

Lasithi is the most off-the-beaten-path of Crete's four regions — and the most rewarding for those who make the effort. The eastern tip of Crete has Vai, Europe's only natural palm forest beach, the haunting leper colony island of Spinalonga, the elegant town of Agios Nikolaos, and the Minoan harbour of Zakros at the far east. The landscape becomes increasingly dramatic and undeveloped the further east you go.
Getting there
Sitia has a small domestic airport (Olympic, Sky Express). Ferries to Sitia from Piraeus 3–4× weekly.
Read full route
Most travellers fly to Heraklion (1.5–2h drive east to Agios Nikolaos) since flight options are richer.
Tip: Heraklion airport beats Sitia for flight options — drive east in 1.5h.
When to Visit
Eastern Crete is the least-touristed corner of the island — Lasithi prefecture covers Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, Spinalonga, Itanos, the palm beach at Vai. The east is hotter and drier than the west; June and late September are perfect, August is for nightlife seekers in Malia (avoid). The Lasithi plateau windmills bloom in May.
4-day itinerary for Crete (Lasithi)
Day 1: Agios Nikolaos & Elounda
- 09:00 · Agios Nikolaos Town
The most elegant town in Crete — a cosmopolitan harbour built around a bottomless lake connected to the sea by a channel. Excellent cafes, restaurants and a Archaeological Museum. - 09:30 · Lake Voulismeni
The famous bottomless lake at the heart of Agios Nikolaos. According to legend, Athena and Artemis bathed here. Lined with cafes — the best coffee spot in the region. - 11:00 · Elounda
Upmarket resort village on a sheltered gulf with calm, crystal-clear water. Base for the Spinalonga boat trip. The sunken city of Olous is visible underwater at the causeway. - 14:00 · Schisma Beach Elounda
Calm sandy beach in the sheltered gulf of Elounda. The water here is noticeably warmer and calmer than the open sea. Ideal for families. - 20:00 · Dinner — Ferryman Elounda
One of the best seafood restaurants in Lasithi, right on the Elounda waterfront. Try the lobster pasta — a local speciality. Then drive back to Agios Nikolaos for the night, just 15 minutes east. - 22:30 · Return to Agios Nikolaos
Short 15-minute drive back from Elounda to Agios Nikolaos. Walk along Lake Voulismeni for a nightcap — the lake is lit and busy late.
Day 2: Spinalonga & Kritsa
- 09:00 · Spinalonga Island
Greece's last active leper colony, closed in 1957. The Venetian fortress walls, abandoned streets and the church of Agios Georgios create one of the most atmospheric sites in the Aegean. Boats from Elounda and Plaka every 30 minutes. - 12:30 · Kritsa Village
One of the largest and most beautiful traditional villages in Crete. Famous for woven lace textiles and the Byzantine church of Panagia Kera — the finest Byzantine frescoes on the island. - 14:30 · Ancient Lato
Remarkably preserved Dorian city-state perched on a twin-peaked hill above Kritsa. Rarely visited, free entry, and extraordinary views over the gulf of Agios Nikolaos. - 16:30 · Almyros Beach
Long sandy beach 2km south of Agios Nikolaos. A freshwater river runs into the sea here, creating a natural lagoon — flamingoes visit in spring. - 20:00 · Evening in Agios Nikolaos
Almyros is essentially the southern edge of Agios Nikolaos — a 5-minute drive or 25-minute walk along the coast brings you back to the lake. Dinner around Lake Voulismeni; the harbour cafés stay open late.
Day 3: Vai Palm Beach & the Far East
- 09:30 · Sitia Town
Relaxed, unspoiled town on the far east coast. Visit the Archaeological Museum for the extraordinary Palaikastro Kouros — the finest Minoan ivory statuette ever found. - 11:00 · Vai Beach
Europe's only natural palm forest beach — 5000 Cretan date palms line a sandy cove at the far northeast tip of Crete. Unique and spectacular. Can get very crowded in high summer — go before 10am. - 13:00 · Itanos Ruins
Ancient city ruins on the headland just north of Vai. Scattered columns, cisterns and walls above a wild pebble beach. Free, unguarded and completely empty. - 15:00 · Palekastro
Quiet village near an extensive Minoan settlement. The nearby Kouremenos beach is the windsurfing capital of Crete — worth a stop on the way back to Sitia for the night. - 19:30 · Return to Sitia
Drive back to Sitia (about 25 minutes from Palekastro). The Sitia waterfront tavernas serve until late, with the local Sitia wine PDO worth seeking out.
Day 4: Zakros & the Valley of the Dead
- 09:00 · Kato Zakros Palace
The fourth great Minoan palace of Crete, excavated in 1962. Uniquely, it was never looted in antiquity — treasures found intact are now in the Heraklion museum. Set directly on the sea at a dramatic cove. - 11:00 · Gorge of the Dead
Wild 8km gorge from the upper village to the palace. Minoan cave tombs are carved into the cliff walls. A 2.5-hour walk, much quieter than the Samaria Gorge. - 14:00 · Xerokampos Beach
Series of remote, undeveloped beaches south of Zakros. Clear, warm Libyan Sea water, almost no tourists. The furthest you can get from the crowds in Crete. - 15:30 · Makrigialos Beach
Long, organised beach on the south coast — a good final swim before the long drive west. From here it's about 110 km / 1.5 hours back to Heraklion airport along the coastal road. - 18:00 · Heraklion — Departure
Arrive at Heraklion for ferry or flight. The longest single drive of the trip — but the Libyan Sea on your right the whole way back makes it bearable.
Top beaches of Crete (Lasithi)
Vai Beach
The only natural palm forest beach in Europe — 5000 Cretan date palms line a golden sand cove at the very tip of Crete. The combination of tropical vegetation and Aegean blue water is unlike anywhere else in Greece. Arrive early — it gets extremely busy by midday in summer.
- Type
- Fine golden sand
- Length
- 500 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — calm, clear water
- Wind protection
- Northeast-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- Organised: sunbeds, umbrellas, restaurant, parking (paid). Protected national park — no camping.
Voulisma Beach
The finest beach near Agios Nikolaos — a wide crescent of golden sand with crystalline water near Istro. Consistently ranked among the best beaches in eastern Crete, yet surprisingly uncrowded compared to the west coast beaches.
- Type
- Fine golden sand
- Length
- 800 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — clear, warm water
- Wind protection
- Northeast-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- Fully organised: sunbeds, water sports, taverna. One of the best-equipped beaches in the east.
Xerokampos Beach
Three remote, wild beaches in the far southeast of Crete, reachable only by rough road. Almost no tourists even in August. The Libyan Sea here is the warmest water in Crete. For those who want complete solitude in a dramatically beautiful setting.
- Type
- Sand and fine pebble mix
- Length
- 3 beaches, each 200-400m
- Depth
- Medium — warm Libyan Sea, excellent visibility
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Very basic: one small taverna-rooms. No sunbeds. Accessible only by rough road.
Almyros Beach
Long sandy beach just south of Agios Nikolaos where a freshwater river meets the sea, creating a natural lagoon. Flamingoes sometimes visit in spring. Calm, warm water and convenient location make it the best easy beach in the region.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 2 km
- Depth
- Shallow — freshwater spring creates a lagoon section
- Wind protection
- East-facing — mostly sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); can be choppy on the strongest NE days
- Facilities
- Good: sunbeds, tavernas, easy parking. Close to Agios Nikolaos.
Kouremenos Beach
The windsurfing capital of Crete near Palekastro — consistent winds and a long pebble beach make it world-class for water sports. The water is exceptionally clear. Not for those seeking a quiet beach day, but perfect for kitesurfers and windsurfers.
- Type
- Pebble
- Length
- 800 m
- Depth
- Medium — clear, cold, excellent for windsurfing
- Wind protection
- East-facing — mostly sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); can be choppy on the strongest NE days
- Facilities
- Moderate: two windsurfing schools, taverna, simple rooms. Not ideal for sunbathing.