Koufonisia
Walk the south coast on Day 1, push to Pori on Day 2, take the boat to Kato Koufonisi on Day 3.
Pano Koufonisi is 4 square kilometres of flat island with one Chora, one road, no cars worth mentioning, and a coastal walking path that connects the entire south and east shores in about an hour. Along that path are some of the cleanest beaches in Greece: Finikas, Fanos, Italida, the natural rock pool of Pisina, and finally Pori — a turquoise lagoon often described as the most beautiful in the Cyclades. Across a 200-metre channel sits uninhabited Kato Koufonisi, reached by hourly water taxi, with wilder beaches and a single legendary taverna. The island had no electricity until the 1980s. It still feels like that's the most recent change worth mentioning.
Getting there
No airport. Pano Koufonisi has a small port for the Small Cyclades line — direct from Piraeus 6–8h, or via Naxos (~1.5h). Limited daily ferries in summer.
Read full route
Tip: The Skopelitis ferry connects all the Small Cyclades — slow but charming and cheap.
When to Visit
Koufonisia is essentially one beach after another — sand, turquoise water, almost no shade. The whole island works in July-August despite crowds because it's so easy. June and September are still the best, but August is fine here.
3-day itinerary for Koufonisia
Day 1: Chora & the Near Beaches
- · Chora
The single village, spread along the small port. Whitewashed alleys, bougainvillea, two bakeries, two supermarkets, a few boutiques (Thoosa, Kares, To Perasma) and roughly 20 tavernas. Sleepy by day, alive at night. Walk it slowly — it takes 15 minutes end to end. - · Ammos Beach
The town beach, 200m from the port. Sandy, calm, sheltered from the meltemi by the headland, and looking straight out at the uninhabited rocky island of Keros. Surprisingly good given how easy it is. - · Lunch — Capetan Nikolas
Family-run tavern open since 1988, large terrace with windmill and harbour views. Best place to get the day going at 2pm. Reasonable prices for the island and the seafood is what to order. - · Finikas Beach (Charokopou)
20 minutes east on the coastal path. Long sandy beach with the Finikas taverna right behind it. Turquoise water, golden sand, gentle slope. The taverna is a Greek-cuisine institution — book ahead for dinner if you stay late. - · Fanos Beach
Continue east 10 minutes. Fanos is the rare Koufonisia beach with sunbeds and a beach café. Sandy, family-friendly, slightly busier than the wilder coves further along. - · Sunset Drinks at the Harbour
Walk back to Chora for a sunset drink at Sorokos on the harbour or Mylos (an old windmill turned bar) on the heights between the port and the shipyard. The sun drops directly behind Naxos.
Day 2: The Long Walk to Pori
- · Italida Beach (Platia Pounta)
Continue east on the coastal path beyond Fanos. Italida is what most visitors agree is the most beautiful beach on the island — a perfect golden crescent with the most turquoise water you'll see in Greece. No facilities. Bring water and snacks. Common nudist beach. - · Pisina (Natural Rock Pool)
Halfway between Italida and Pori, the path passes a deep emerald natural pool carved into the limestone by the sea. Cliff jumping spot for the brave (check depth first, currents can be strong). The best swimming hole on the island. - · Pori Beach
The destination of the walk — a long, deep, north-facing turquoise lagoon. About an hour on foot from Chora, or take the small boat from the harbour (€5 all-day pass). Two beach restaurants: Kalofego is the better one. Strong wind on meltemi days; otherwise paradisical. - · Xylopatis Sea Caves
100m beyond the Pori headland — sea caves carved into the cliffs that you can swim into when calm. Photogenic and rarely crowded because most visitors stop at Pori itself. - 19:30 · Return to Chora
Walk back along the coast path to Chora (about 45 minutes from the NE caves). The path is gentle — sunset over the Aegean is the reward. Stop at any taverna in Chora for dinner.
Day 3: Kato Koufonisi & Departure
- · Boat to Kato Koufonisi
Hourly small boat from Chora harbour, 10-minute crossing. €5 return. Last boat back is around 6pm. The island has a single taverna and a series of wild beaches connected by goat tracks. Nothing else. - · Nero Beach (Kato Koufonisi)
The first beach south of the boat landing. Pebbly, crystal water, almost always empty. Walk the 15 minutes south from the harbour. - · Lunch — Venetsanos Taverna
The only taverna on Kato Koufonisi, near the boat landing. Local goat dishes (the meat comes from Keros), fresh fish, sometimes impromptu Greek music. The kind of meal you remember. - · Pezoulia & Detis Beaches
Walk further south past Nero — Pezoulia and Detis are pebbly coves with crystalline water, separated by small rocky headlands. Almost guaranteed to have one to yourself even in August. Catch the late boat back to Chora. - 17:00 · Return to Koufonisi & Departure
Take the small caique back across the channel from Kato Koufonisi (about 15 minutes). The main port has connections to Naxos, Amorgos, and Athens — last ferry of the day usually leaves around 18:00 in summer.
Top beaches of Koufonisia
Pori Beach
The signature beach of the Small Cyclades — a long turquoise lagoon at the eastern tip of Pano Koufonisi, with golden sand and water so shallow you can walk 50 metres out. North-facing means it can be windy when the meltemi blows; pick a calm day for the full effect. The walk along the coastal path from Chora is one of the best half-day experiences in the Cyclades.
- Type
- Fine golden sand
- Length
- 500 m
- Depth
- Shallow lagoon — wade-deep for most of the bay
- Wind protection
- North-facing — fully exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often choppy June–September
- Facilities
- Two beach restaurants (Kalofego is the better) and seasonal sunbeds. Reachable by boat (€5 day pass) or 1-hour walk from Chora.
Italida Beach
The most photogenic beach on Pano Koufonisi — a perfect golden crescent with water so transparent you can see your shadow on the sandy bottom from 5 metres up. Sheltered from the meltemi when Pori is windswept. Common nudist beach. Often considered the most beautiful beach in the Small Cyclades.
- Type
- Fine golden sand
- Length
- 200 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — gradual sandy entry
- Wind protection
- Southeast-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm most days, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- None — no taverna, no sunbeds. Bring water, food, and shade. 30-minute walk east from Chora.
Fanos Beach
The default family beach on Koufonisia — sandy, calm, with one of the few proper beach cafés on the island. Fills up by midday in August but never feels packed. Good base for the start of the coastal walk to Italida and Pori.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 150 m
- Depth
- Shallow — family-friendly
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Light: a beach café and a few sunbeds. The most equipped beach on the south coast.
Ammos Beach
The town beach — directly in front of Chora and a 5-minute walk from the port. Surprisingly clean and clear given how easy it is to access, with the rocky island of Keros visible across the strait. The default for a quick swim before lunch.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 200 m
- Depth
- Shallow — very gradual
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Several waterfront tavernas immediately behind. 200m walk from the port.