Schoinoussa
Chora and the eastern beaches on Day 1, the south coast on Day 2.
8.5 square kilometres of arid limestone between Naxos and Koufonisia, Schoinoussa is locally nicknamed the 'Island of the Sun' because it gets less rain than anywhere else in Greece. The single Chora sits 1km from the port at Mersini bay — a 10-minute walk uphill. The whole island is walkable: every beach is within a 35-minute walk of Chora, the highest point is 133 metres, the topography is gentle. Reputation alert: the food here is shockingly good. The half-dozen tavernas in Chora consistently outperform what an island this small should be able to deliver.
Getting there
No airport. Tiny port on the Small Cyclades line — direct from Piraeus 7–9h, or via Naxos (~1h).
Read full route
The Skopelitis local ferry hops between all the Small Cyclades.
Tip: Combine with Iraklia and Koufonisia — the Skopelitis makes it cheap and easy.
When to Visit
Schoinoussa is a single hill with three villages and a few good beaches. Open May-September. June or September are best. Almost no infrastructure off-season.
2-day itinerary for Schoinoussa
Day 1: Chora & the Eastern Beaches
- · Mersini Port
The natural-harbour port — one of the safest in the Cyclades. Two seafood tavernas at the water and the bay itself doubles as Mersini Beach (calm enough for paddle-boarding). 10-min walk uphill to Chora. - · Chora
The main village on the highest point — small Cycladic settlement of whitewashed houses, narrow alleys, half a dozen tavernas, two mini-markets. Walk it end to end in 5 minutes. The food scene here is the surprise of the island. - · Tsigouri Beach
10-minute walk south of Chora down stairs. Long sandy beach with calm shallow water. Site of an early Christian basilica and Hellenistic-Roman ruins. The most popular beach on the island and reasonably equipped. - · Almyros Beach
15-minute walk east of Chora. The shallowest and most sheltered beach on Schoinoussa — perfect for kids. Less developed than Tsigouri. - · Dinner in Chora
The food on Schoinoussa is the highlight. Fava (yellow split pea purée), local goat, koftes, fresh seafood. Walk into Chora and pick whichever taverna catches your eye — the standard is uniformly high.
Day 2: Psili Ammos & the South Coast
- · Psili Ammos Beach
30-minute walk northeast of Chora. The best beach on the island — long, sandy, with crystal-clear water. North-facing so it can be windy when the meltemi blows; otherwise paradise. No facilities. - · Aligaria Beach
2km south of Chora via narrow trail to the southernmost bay. Sandy, very quiet, with two other small beaches (Kambos and Gagavi) in the same bay. - · Messaria Village
Small inland village 1km west of Chora — only a few permanent residents. A handful of traditional houses, a couple of churches. Worth a 15-minute walk to see how the agricultural inland of the island works. - · Boat to Iraklia or Koufonisia
If you have a third day, the Express Skopelitis ferry runs between all four Small Cyclades islands daily in summer. Iraklia is closer (sleepier, with the impressive Cave of Agios Ioannis); Koufonisia is more developed but with the famous Pori beach.
Top beaches of Schoinoussa
Tsigouri Beach
The default beach of Schoinoussa — long, sandy, calm, with the ruins of an early Christian basilica and a Hellenistic-Roman settlement just behind. Close enough to walk from Chora for a swim before lunch and back for siesta. Gets a bit busy by Schoinoussa standards in August.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 300 m
- Depth
- Shallow — calm, family-friendly
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- Reasonable: a few sunbeds, taverna behind. 10-min walk from Chora.
Psili Ammos Beach
The most beautiful beach on Schoinoussa — fine white sand, water that shifts from emerald to deep blue. Open to the meltemi from the north, so check the wind forecast before walking out. On a calm day there is nowhere better on the island.
- Type
- Very fine white sand
- Length
- 200 m
- Depth
- Shallow — gradual sandy entry
- Wind protection
- Northeast-facing — exposed to the meltemi (the dominant summer N/NE wind); often windy on meltemi days
- Facilities
- None. Bring water, food, shade. 30-min walk northeast from Chora.
Mersini Beach
The port doubles as a beach — almost lagoon-calm because of the natural harbour shape. Not the most scenic but ideal for paddle-boarding and an effortless first/last swim of the trip without leaving the harbour.
- Type
- Sand and pebble
- Length
- 150 m
- Depth
- Shallow — perfectly sheltered natural harbour
- Wind protection
- Southwest-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare S/SW winds
- Facilities
- Two seafood tavernas at the water. Right at the port — convenient on arrival/departure days.
Almyros Beach
The shallowest and most sheltered beach on the island — wade-deep for 30 metres out, perfect calm. The default family beach, almost always quieter than Tsigouri.
- Type
- Fine sand
- Length
- 150 m
- Depth
- Very shallow — safest for children
- Wind protection
- South-facing — sheltered from the meltemi (the summer N/NE wind); calm in summer, exposed only to rare southern winds
- Facilities
- None. 15-min walk east of Chora.