Tilos
Livadia, Mikro Chorio ghost village and the abandoned bar Day 1, Megalo Chorio, the castle and Eristos Day 2.
Tilos is 63 km² of hills and coves between Nisyros and Halki, with roughly 500 year-round residents in two working villages: Livadia (the port) and Megalo Chorio (the traditional capital, on the slopes of Mount Stefanos). In between them, the ghost village of Mikro Chorio — 15th-century, abandoned after WWII, with one working church and one legendary bar that only opens after 23:00 with a free shuttle from Livadia. The island is paleontologically famous: Charkadio Cave in the middle of the island was where fossilised dwarf elephants were discovered in the 1970s, some only 1.2m tall, extinct around 4,000 BC. Tilos is also the first fully renewable-energy island in Greece (solar + wind + storage covers all electricity needs since 2018). Two days — one for each half of the island.
2-day itinerary for Tilos
Day 1: Livadia, Lethra Walk & the Ghost Village Bar
- · Livadia Port
The main port and most developed village — a mix of old and new on first glance, but lively in the late afternoon when the square fills up. Pedestrian-only beachfront walkway, tavernas, bakery, cafés, the pebbled town beach right at the harbour. 500 of the island's residents live here. - · Agiosykia Castle
On the hill directly above Livadia harbour — 15th-century Knights of St. John fortress, given to Barello Assanti d'Ischia to fortify the island against pirates. Only the defensive walls survive, but the panoramic view over Livadia bay and the open Aegean is the reward for a short climb. - · Livadia to Lethra Walk
45-minute waymarked coastal path north from Livadia through small valleys to Lethra beach — pebble, quiet, often completely empty. The best easy hike on the island, with views across to Nisyros. Return the same way or loop via Mikro Chorio. - · Mikro Chorio (Ghost Village)
3km from Livadia — a 15th-century village that housed 700 people, abandoned after WWII when residents moved down to the port. Stone houses in various states of collapse, a working church, a medieval castle ruin. Best time: late afternoon for photography; after 23:00 for the bar (see next stop). - · Mikro Chorio Bar
One of the most atmospheric bars in Greece — operates only in summer, only after 23:00, in the ruins of an abandoned medieval village. Free shuttle bus from Livadia. No neighbours means no noise complaints. Drinks are a bit pricier than average but the experience is unmatched.
Day 2: Charkadio Cave, Megalo Chorio Castle & Eristos
- · Charkadio Cave & Museum
Between Mikro Chorio and Megalo Chorio — the cave where fossilised dwarf elephants were discovered in the 1970s. The cave itself is closed to visitors but the small Paleontology Museum next door houses two skeletons of the 1.2m-tall elephants, plus fossils and skulls from the nearby Agios Antonios ancient cemetery. Unique in the Aegean. - · Megalo Chorio (Capital)
The traditional capital on the slopes of Mount Stefanos. Whitewashed houses, bougainvillea, narrow alley-labyrinth, pebble-paved church courtyards. Until the early 18th century the entire population of Tilos lived within the castle walls above. The main church of Taxiarchis Michael has western architectural influences and a carved iconostasis by Smyrna craftsmen. - · Castle of the Knights (Megalo Chorio)
15th-century Knights of St. John fortress on the natural peak of Mount Stefanos, built on the ancient acropolis. 20-30 minute steep hike up a rough path from Megalo Chorio — not for kids, no railings. The reward: the half-ruined Church of Agios Taxiarchis with original frescoes, ancient water tanks, ruins of the medieval town, and 360° views over Eristos Bay and Agios Antonios. - · Eristos Beach
2.5km south of Megalo Chorio — the headline beach of the island. Long wide crescent of fine sand mixed with pebbles, tamarisk trees behind for shade, emerald water. Free campers pitch tents under the tamarisks. A canteen and beach café in summer; no sunbeds. Easily the most popular beach on Tilos. - · Agios Antonios & Plaka Beach
Small fishing village on the north coast with good taverns and a peaceful bay. Just beyond it, Plaka beach with its resident peacocks — pine trees for shade, pebbles, no sunbeds, no café. The oddest-but-wonderful sight on the island: peacocks walking the pebbles. - · Dinner at Kastro Taverna
In Megalo Chorio — grilled meat, simple local dishes, family-run. The evening view from the square with the castle illuminated above is the reason to linger. Back to Livadia by bus afterwards, or stay in one of the small rooms in Megalo Chorio.
Top beaches of Tilos
Eristos Beach
The signature beach of Tilos — a long wide crescent of fine sand, emerald water, tamarisk trees that keep the shade even in August. A path on the left side ends in two secluded red-earth coves. Popular with free campers. The default full beach day on the island.
- Type
- Fine sand and small pebble
- Length
- 800 m
- Depth
- Shallow to medium — emerald water
- Facing
- South-facing — sheltered
- Facilities
- Light: a summer canteen, a beach café. Tamarisk shade, free camping tolerated. Bus from Livadia (30 min).
Plaka Beach
Quiet pebble beach on the north coast — famous for its resident peacocks that wander the pebbles, an unexpected sight on a Greek island. Pine trees for a little shade, no facilities. Bring water and snacks. Peaceful even in August.
- Type
- Pebble
- Length
- 200 m
- Depth
- Medium — clear
- Facing
- North-facing
- Facilities
- None. Pine tree shade, wild peacocks. 30-40 min walk from Agios Antonios bus stop.
Lethra Beach
The hiker's beach — a rough wild pebble cove on the east coast reached only by the signed coastal path from Livadia or by excursion boat. Clear deep water, complete solitude. The hike itself is the reward as much as the beach.
- Type
- Pebble
- Length
- 150 m
- Depth
- Medium — clear water
- Facing
- East-facing
- Facilities
- None. Reached only by 45-minute hike from Livadia or by boat.
Agios Antonios Beach
North-coast fishing-village beach with palm trees and calm water — longer and easier to reach than Eristos, with genuine tavernas behind. Less spectacular but practical. The sunset view from the waterfront tavern is worth staying for dinner.
- Type
- Sand and pebble
- Length
- 300 m
- Depth
- Shallow
- Facing
- Northwest-facing — sheltered bay
- Facilities
- Light: tavernas in the small fishing village behind, some sunbeds. Bus from Livadia.